<![CDATA[NAMASTAY TRAINING, LLC

<![CDATA[NAMASTAY TRAINING, LLC - Blog]]>Sat, 11 Apr 2026 17:41:09 -0700Weebly<![CDATA[What You Really Need for a New Puppy - Advice from a Dog Trainer]]>Sun, 21 Dec 2025 05:08:28 GMThttps://www.namastaytraining.com/blog/what-you-really-need-for-a-new-puppy-advice-from-a-dog-trainer

There is no denying that a new puppy is exciting and fun — but also a lot of work. What you do now makes a big difference in your dog’s behavior later in life. So, if you are getting ready to bring a new puppy home, here is my list of what you need to be successful.

Food and Treats - This is the fuel your puppy uses to grow big and strong.
Food designed specifically for puppies — This is a must. It’s ideal to get a small bag of food from the breeder and use it to transition to the food you plan to feed long-term. Feed the best food you can afford, and take time to educate yourself about nutrition.
Treats for training — Training starts the moment you get home, so have treats ready to go. Keep them small and reward everything your puppy does right. Before long, they’ll be doing more right things than wrong ones. Look for treats with ingredients you can pronounce and avoid inferior treats with added colors.

Supplies - This is all the “boring” stuff you need.
Water bowl — Choose one that’s easy to clean and hard to tip over. I recommend using food toys for meals, so you don’t need a food bowl — just a water bowl.
A treat bag — You should be rewarding your puppy for all the right things. If you put treats in your pocket, you’ll end up washing more clothes than you care to admit. If you leave treats in their original bag, you’ll inadvertently teach your puppy the wrong cue. Using a treat bag means your voice — “Yes, smart puppy!” — predicts good things, not the crinkle of plastic.
Crate (to be replaced as they grow) — Using a crate helps with housetraining, and it’s not “mean.” What is mean is letting your puppy roam, make a bad choice, and then yelling at them about it.
Dog gate(s) — Need to keep the puppy out of the fancy dining room? No problem — use a dog gate. Limiting access reduces destructive chewing and housetraining accidents.
Soft, adjustable collar and harness — Don’t spend a lot of money here. Your puppy will outgrow these quickly. Save your money now so you can invest in high-quality equipment when they’re closer to adult size.
At least one 6-foot leash — No retractable leashes. A plain leather or nylon leash is perfect. Puppies chew, and it’s not uncommon for one to chew through a leash if you’re not paying attention. If that happens with an expensive leash, you’ll be disappointed.
Incontinence pads — I don’t recommend pee pads. They’re wasteful and not environmentally friendly. Instead, buy reusable incontinence pads from a medical supply store. They’re washable, reusable, and a better long-term investment.
Cleaner — Decide now what you’ll use when your puppy pees on the floor. Make sure it’s an enzymatic cleaner.
Playpen / exercise pen — Think of the crate as a crib and the playpen as a safe play space. This is where your puppy stays when you can’t actively supervise, such as when you’re working. I recommend using a scrap of linoleum under the pen so you can set it up anywhere. I also use ice cubes in the water bowl so puppies don’t spill it or drink too much at once.
Grooming tools — Ask your breeder what tools and shampoo are appropriate for your breed. Don’t skimp on quality. Better tools make grooming easier for both you and your puppy.
Dog bed / cooler bed — Which one you need depends on climate and season. Puppies often seek out tile floors because they run warmer than humans, especially while growing. Cooler beds are great for warm climates or summer puppies; warm beds are better for winter or colder regions. If you live somewhere with seasons, you may need both.
Temporary contact information — Cheap tags wear off. Invest in a stainless steel, engraved tag when possible. If your puppy is too small or growing fast, make a temporary tag using shrink plastic from a craft store. Just remember to poke the hole before baking. This is also useful for travel or camping.

Toys & Chews - This can get expensive — make investments, not just purchases.
Stuffable food toys — Kong™ is my favorite. I recommend having at least five adult-size Kongs (based on predicted adult weight). Once a week, stuff them with your puppy’s meals. I skip peanut butter and focus on food that provides real nutritional value. Puppies should get at least one meal per day this way.
Food toys for dry kibble — If you feed kibble, get at least two puzzle-style food toys. For young puppies, I love the Kong Wobbler and Planet Dog Snoop.
Animal chews — Bully sticks, pig ears, lamb ears, tracheas, and no-hide chews fall into this category. Use them sparingly. Puppies are teething, which is why refillable food toys work well. I use bully sticks intentionally for handling and grooming exercises.
Play toys — These are the cute, soft toys you use with your puppy. They’re also the toys most likely to be destroyed or eaten, so keep them put away unless you’re supervising.
Balls & bumpers — For hunting dogs, skip squeaky balls and use bumpers. For pets, balls, bumpers, and frisbees are fine. Rubber toys tend to be more durable. I’m a fan of West Paw and Planet Dog.
Tug toys — Soft fleece tug toys are my favorite for puppies. I keep them in every room because they’re perfect for redirecting biting. Don’t bite my pants — bite this instead.
Toys (general) — Rotate toys regularly. You’ll quickly discover preferences and can invest in what your puppy truly enjoys.

Education - “I am still learning.” — Michelangelo, age 87
Puppy training class — Every puppy should attend a well-run class taught by a trainer who specializes in puppies. Experience matters. Early guidance prevents bigger problems later. Avoid harsh methods and prioritize age-appropriate, positive training.
Adult training class — Learning should continue throughout your dog’s life. Plan and budget for ongoing education.
Books — Reading helps, but choose wisely. Two of my favorite trainers are Suzanne Clothier and Patricia McConnell, Ph.D.
A veterinarian — Choose someone who listens and answers questions respectfully. If they talk at you instead of with you, find a different vet.
Webinar — I offer a puppy webinar packed with information to help you prepare. It’s an hour I wish every new puppy parent would watch.
https://namastaytraining.thrivecart.com/puppies-are-more-than-puppy-breath/

And finally, the most important thing you need for a new puppy isn’t sold in any store: patience — for your puppy and yourself. Mistakes will happen. Planning for them makes it easier to laugh, adjust, and forgive. That mindset communicates more to your puppy than any single training exercise ever could.

]]><![CDATA[How to Socialize Your Puppy Without Overwhelming Them]]>Sun, 21 Dec 2025 04:26:28 GMThttps://www.namastaytraining.com/blog/how-to-socialize-your-puppy-without-overwhelming-them

We have all heard the advice to “Socialize! Socialize! Socialize!” your puppy. But what exactly does that mean? When I ask this to new puppy owners, invariably the response I get is, “Expose them to lots of different things.” And they are right — at least partially. The one key component that they are missing is that it should be POSITIVE exposure to the world around them.

The socialization window is the time to say to your puppy, “Welcome to the world! It’s a great place, and you don’t need to be scared because I have your back.”

The biggest and most common mistake I see new puppy guardians make is that, in an effort to socialize their puppy, they allow a multitude of inappropriate interactions to occur repeatedly, which can create behavior problems. Imagine for a moment that every time you went out in public, every single person you saw touched you. How would that make you feel? Some people would love that much attention, but the vast majority of people would hate having their space invaded every single time they go out — and puppies are the same.

Some puppies love the attention, and some endure it. Over the years, I have worked with many adult dogs who have a fear of humans. Nine times out of ten, I can trace it back to their puppyhood. These are typically very attractive dogs, and when they go out into the world, everybody wants to touch them. So from a very early age, they learn: Every time I go out, people I don’t know or don’t like are going to touch me. My guardian has failed to keep me safe, and the only way I can keep myself safe is to set my own personal boundary.

Usually, these dogs try to avoid people, and then owners make it worse by forcing the issue. They make the puppy approach people. If avoidance doesn’t work to give them the space they need to feel safe, they will escalate their communication to growling, snapping, or biting. That is usually when they call me.

We don’t want this to happen to your dog, so you need to be very smart about how you socialize your puppy — especially with people and other dogs.

The easiest way to do that is to adopt a 75/25 rule with people and dogs. When out and about in the real world, 75% of the time your puppy looks at people or dogs, and 25% of the time they engage with people or dogs. That means one out of four people or dogs gets to potentially engage with your puppy. It shouldn’t be zero or 100%. A nice mix between “sometimes we stop and greet” and “sometimes we say a friendly ‘hello!’ and keep moving.”

When you do decide to greet, I encourage you to allow your puppy bodily autonomy. Ask the person who wants to pet your puppy to kneel down, pat their leg, and encourage the puppy to come over to them. If the puppy comes over, then they get to engage. If the puppy does not come over, then clearly the puppy does not want to be touched — and that’s okay!
When it comes to dog greetings, don’t let a big dog loom over a small puppy. Ask the other dog to sit and see if your puppy approaches. If they do, that’s great — they can say hello for a few seconds. If they don’t, that’s okay too. They can just look at the big dog.

You can become social through proximity and not physical touch. I don’t touch every single person I meet, and I’m quite social. When I’m at the park, I don’t stop and shake hands with every human I meet. If I have a human infant, I put that child in a stroller or carry them and show them the world. I don’t hand my child off to every stranger I see to hold and touch them.

It’s the same concept with your puppy. Your dog doesn’t need to sniff and greet every human or dog they see — but they do need to see the world at their pace and comfort level.
The other benefit of the 75/25 rule is that puppies are learning personal space boundaries in the other direction. Not every human they see or dog they pass will want their attention. Not every human wants to pet them, and not every dog wants to play. This helps prevent them from turning into a big adolescent dog that drags you over to every single person or dog they meet.

None of this means that you should keep your puppy home and not have them experience the world!

What it does mean is that you need to be smart and pay attention to how your puppy feels about being out in the world. If they are nervous, scared, or overwhelmed, you need to acknowledge that and help them through it. If they are happy and playful with people and dogs, keep it up — but give them boundaries so they don’t turn into a demanding adult. It’s a balancing act, but if you keep these points in mind, you’ll do just fine.

Keys to Successful Socialization
• Provide your dog with POSITIVE experiences with NEW THINGS
• Let your dog APPROACH at their own pace
• YUMMY treats create positive associations with new experiences
• Sometimes we just WATCH the world while eating yummy treats
• Sometimes we actively ENGAGE with the world while eating yummy treats
• My guardian keeps me safe by going slow if I am FEARFUL, while feeding me yummy treats
• Opportunities to play with other puppies are essential. If the only dogs your puppy meets are older dogs, family dogs, or dogs at the dog park, they won’t develop a well-rounded “dog” experience.

Dogs don’t just “get over” issues through repeated exposure. If your dog is shy or cautious, get help from a professional before small concerns become bigger problems.
If your dog is happy and comfortable, you are doing a great job. Keep it up!

]]><![CDATA[The Smartest Gift for Dog People This Year]]>Tue, 09 Dec 2025 17:49:15 GMThttps://www.namastaytraining.com/blog/the-smartest-gift-for-dog-people-this-year

Many years ago, my brother gave me a tiny, practical gift: a set of clip-on lights for my dogs’ collars. Nothing fancy. Nothing that belonged on a shopping guide or under a spotlight. But it was the first time someone gave me something that reflected who I was — a person whose life revolves, in the best way, around dogs.

That small gesture said, “I see how much they mean to you.”
And that made it unforgettable.

When you love a dog, gifts that acknowledge that love can feel incredibly personal. They support the bond that shapes your days — your routines, your laughter, the reason you go outside in weather that makes the mailman question your sanity. A gift for a dog is really a gift for the person who builds their world around them.
Which brings me to winter break.

It’s one of those rare times when we’re home more. Kids are around. Work slows down (hopefully). There are more blankets and fewer alarms. And right in the middle of that lovely shift sits a dog who thinks, “Finally! My person is available for me all day long!” The excitement is sweet… until you realize they now expect entertainment on demand.

Because while our routines feel like a break, our dogs experience change as uncertainty. They don’t take a holiday from needing engagement and clarity. When the pattern shifts, they often need a little more support to understand where they fit in the new rhythm. Without that guidance, they can get a bit lost. Not naughty — just unsure. And uncertainty usually looks like pacing, nudging, barking, or staring deep into your soul while you’re trying to finish a puzzle with your niece.

But a simple game can change the tone of a whole day.

One of my favorites from my Doggie Advent Calendar is a quick scent game called Mistletoe Mission. It’s part hide-and-seek, part quest — just enough challenge to check the “I used my brain today” box. It’s quick, cozy, and helps dogs settle into that lovely winter calm we all hope for. Five minutes of shared focus. Five minutes of “Yes, I see you.” That’s often all a dog needs. These kinds of activities don’t just pass the time — they build real-life skills.

For example: when the doorbell rings and your dog believes their job is to greet the neighbors two doors down, it’s not because they’re rude — it’s because the moment is big and exciting and they don’t know how else to handle it. A practice game like The Alphabet Challenge — a DIY Dog Scholar™ Training Game, where their job is simply to “stay with me while the world moves around us,” can turn that frantic greeting into confident self-control. It helps the dog succeed. It helps the humans breathe.

And the best part? If you have children home during break, these same activities give them a fun, simple way to help — with your guidance — so the whole family gets to be part of loving and supporting the dog. And that’s the heart of the matter: these tiny experiences of success and connection are gifts — to both ends of the leash.

So, if you’re looking for a gift that feels good to give and even better to receive, I made something that might be perfect.
My DIY Dog Scholar™ Winter Training Game Bundle is a printable collection of activities designed to strengthen the bond between dogs and their people, especially during cozy seasons when life looks different.

You can print a copy for your own household and print another for a friend who loves their dog just as fiercely. Every purchase includes a personal-use print release — so you’re welcome to share a copy with the dog-loving people in your life. Pair it with a small bag of treats, and you have a gift that says exactly what the collar lights once said to me:

“I see how much this relationship matters.”
And that’s a beautiful thing to give.

If this sounds like the kind of gift you’d love to give (or receive), you can find the Winter Training Bundle here:

Share the love with every dog in your life

P.S. If you know another dog lover who would appreciate a gift that celebrates the bond they share with their pup, feel free to share this post with them. The more dogs who feel seen and supported this season, the better.

]]><![CDATA[Why My Dogs Aren’t Naughty at Christmas (and How Yours Don’t Have to Be)]]>Thu, 27 Nov 2025 03:52:53 GMThttps://www.namastaytraining.com/blog/why-my-dogs-arent-naughty-at-christmas-and-how-yours-dont-have-to-be

As a dog trainer who has lived through more than a few “creative holiday dog moments,” I wrote this to help you avoid the ones I didn’t. This is real-life advice from my home to yours — plaster sheep included.

I love Christmas. I do. As a kid, it was pure magic: cookies, hymns, twinkle lights… the whole holly-jolly package. And somewhere between childhood wonder and adult responsibility, the holidays shifted from magical fun to hair-on-fire chaos.

Our dogs feel that shift too — but without any understanding of what the heck is happening. More guests, more food, more tempting decorations, fewer walks, and a stressed-out human who suddenly expects perfect behavior?
It's a lot.

My first dog, Maverick, celebrated his first Christmas by eating an entire plaster sheep from my nativity set. Ate it. Gone. Just four sad legs left stuck to the base.
The following year, Maverick and Jasper zoomed past the tree so hard the shepherd fell over… and his head fell clean off. That shepherd is still glued together today.
Lesson learned: smart trainers put the nativity UP and the baby gate AROUND the tree.

Dogs aren’t perfect — even when they belong to trainers
Here’s the thing most people misunderstand: dog trainers don’t have flawless dogs. What we know (that most people don’t realize) is that we must meet their needs before their creativity takes over. Because when dogs are bored, anxious, under-exercised, or ignored, they will find their own “holiday enrichment.” And we will not approve of it.

What I do differently (and how you can steal it)
I’m not regimented. I don’t spend hours training every day. But I DO rotate fun, simple activities that keep brains and bodies happy.
Every day — including December — my dogs get my attention for at least 45 minutes to an hour. Sometimes it’s a 30-minute walk plus fetch in the yard. We might do some recall races in the yard. I will admit that summer is far easier to meet their needs because we go outside and play, but it’s unfair to expect them to hibernate all winter just because I don’t want to be cold outside. That’s when we shift to more inside enrichment, like “hide and seek” with a toy or “find it” with treats. I can even do those while cleaning the house, so I feel extra productive. Winter is the best time to practice or teach new tricks.
It’s not about perfection. It’s about prevention. Because nature abhors a vacuum… and dogs abhor being ignored. If we don’t give them an outlet, they’ll create one. And I guarantee you won’t like it.

I realize that, as a dog trainer and a hardcore dog geek, what might seem normal and natural to me might not even cross your mind. Instead of wishing you would think like me, I decided to help my students by creating an easy-to-follow resource that is packed with a variety of simple-to-advanced activities that are easy to add to daily life — and that’s how the Doggie Advent Calendar was born.

It is a 25-day enrichment plan — one small fun thing each day that helps you:
• think outside the fetch-and-walk box
• survive winter with your dogs
• feel less stressed, not more
• include kids in the fun
• create holiday memories that involve the dog (and not in a “she ate the gift wrap” way)

And here’s the best part: when you prioritize a tiny bit of fun and connection with your dog each day… you feel better, too.

Want the plan I use?
If you want 25 days of dog-friendly fun all mapped out for you — including easy activities, bonus games, and videos for select challenges — I’ve put my Doggie Advent Calendar up for download:
Grab the Advent Calendar Here (so your nativity scene survives the season)

Download Now — Make December Stress-Free!

Want a sneak peek at what the buzz is all about?

Holiday Crackers
Make your own holiday cracker puzzle game by putting some treats in an empty cardboard tube. You can use a paper towel, toilet paper, or gift wrap rolls. Poke a few scent holes and fold the ends closed. Supervise and help as needed. This is a mental enrichment game that uses their nose, and I don’t worry about them chewing a bit of paper. If I want to take it to the next level, I can hide the “crackers.” This is a fun activity for kiddos to do.

Obedience Brush-Up — Sit
If you don't practice the basics they can get rusty. Don't let that happen with sit! You can practice in a new location, increase the duration, reward only the fastest sits. Spice it up to keep it fresh. Here is a video of me doing that with my dog Stanley. I routinely practice the “basics” when out on walks, in new places, and during everyday life. Brushing up on the basics helps the dogs have nice manners when visitors come over during the holidays.

Mistletoe Mission
Each December, the Mistletoe Messenger assigns secret missions to good pups everywhere. Their task? Follow their nose to uncover hidden delights and spread joy throughout the home! Game instructions and video examples included. This is a GREAT nosework game, which is the fastest way to tire a pup out — using their nose.

And as a special bonus, I’ve added a DIY Dog Scholar™ Training Game — my Doggie Tic Tac Toe Holiday Edition.
Most dogs only know their basic body positions in a pattern: sit → down → treat → done.
Tic-Tac-Toe breaks that habit. This game teaches your dog to listen for the actual cue, not the “order they expect next,” which is one of the sneakiest reasons dogs get confused. I’ve included instructions for single or multiple dog play with increasing challenge levels. This is great to brush up on obedience or to use as a fun game with the kids or visitors.

Stocking Day
Providing my dogs with mental enrichment is so routine for us we call Christmas “Stocking Day” for the dogs. They each have their own stocking, and we stuff it and they have to empty it out. I use a variety of treats and chews, and it’s fun to see which treat they like best, which ones they ignore, who steals what — and it’s become my favorite part of the holiday.

At the end of the day…
We made a promise to take care of them from their first day to their last.
I did not say, “I’ll take care of you… except during the busiest month of the year.”

Just a few minutes of intentional fun makes the whole season smoother — for both of you.

Want help keeping your dog included in the magic?

Grab the Advent Calendar here and let the fun begin!

Your turn!
What’s YOUR funniest holiday-with-dogs memory? (Bonus points if plaster was involved).

]]><![CDATA[Oh, Your Dog is afraid of Fireworks? That sucks!]]>Fri, 07 Jun 2024 20:50:56 GMThttps://www.namastaytraining.com/blog/oh-your-dog-is-afraid-of-fireworks-that-sucks

Many dog owners find summer to be less enjoyable than it could be, and for some, it's even terrible due to fireworks. This blog has two goals:

1. Provide tips for owners of sound-phobic dogs to help them and their pets get through the summer, especially 4th of July.
2. Educate people about what it’s like to live with a sound-phobic dog.

Every time I mention that fireworks are impactful, I am met with people who dismiss my concerns by saying things like, "Oh, your dog is afraid of fireworks? That sucks." But it's not just about my dog—it's about showing compassion for all pets. It feels like an unwinnable battle, but I am hoping that by working together with collective action, we might actually begin to move the needle towards more compassion for each other. By putting a face to "firework fear" people might begin to understand how their "fun" impacts others. Surely, if they knew how hard it is on so many dogs and their owners, they might consider not lighting them off. Or at least, only doing so on the holiday.

Let me tell you about my friend, Julie, she has a debilitating sound phobia. It breaks my heart to see her struggle. Her fear is so debilitating that she won’t go outside to potty alone for at least a month after the holiday, and it takes two months for her to resume normal walks in the neighborhood. Her guardian has tried every over-the-counter treatment, has worked with a trainer and tried all the medications her vet has prescribed. This is her life in the summer. “I start the pheromone diffuser on the first of July. On the 2nd of July, I start her medication, and I gradually increase it until the 4th. On the 4th of July, I put a thunder shirt on her. Then we go to the basement at 8:00 PM and turn on the fan and the TV really loud. I build a little seclusion area for her to get into. She normally loves her crate, but she will not get into her crate during this time. She paces and pants for hours and hours. I wean her off the medication after the 4th of July but we continue to hide in the basement with her thundershirt and safe space until August. I stop using the Thunder shirt and take down her hiding place in August, when they are mostly done. She does not want me to be touched when they start. So I sit on the floor and let her come to me. Sometimes, she gets into my walk-in shower to find safety. The only thing I stop is her digging at the walls or the floor.”

Please stop for a moment and read that again. Imagine how would you feel if that was your dog? You are unable to help them, you are unable to explain to them what’s happening and you can’t console them. It’s gut wrenching. And it also impacts your life because when your dog is in this emotional state you must monitor them so that means you can’t go out with friends, you can’t do yardwork after work. You are stuck in the basement every night in the summer because you’re just trying to get through the day.

As a professional dog trainer, I work with many clients with sound-phobic dogs like Julie and have shared my life with a few. My beautiful dog, Stanley, was one of those dogs. He’s at the Rainbow Bridge waiting for me now, but I remember the dread, frustration, anger, and sadness that fireworks brought to our life. While my dear friend is free of this nightmare, so many dogs still endure this yearly ordeal. My experience with Stanley, has driven my mission to educate others. You heard Julie’s story, now let me share with you what it was like with Stanley.

When Stanley was a young puppy, life was great, and summer was a time of fun. Longer walks, more time playing ball in the backyard, just laying outside in the shade and listening to the birds. That all changed when he got older. He became sound-phobic around the age of seven, specifically with fireworks. One firework—nothing loud, just a single pop from a bottle rocket—would send him inside for the rest of the night. If that bottle rocket went off in the morning, I might get him back out again in the afternoon, only to be chased back in by another "pop." If it was after 4 pm, he was done for the day—he wouldn’t even eat dinner.

And that was just a normal summer day. When "hell week" started (the week before the 4th of July), I had to medicate him with anxiety medication from the vet. It was the only way he could cope with the non-stop fireworks that go off EVERY DAMN NIGHT from mid-June until well after the 4th of July.

On the 4th, we had to give him a full dose of his medication. A full dose made him wobbly on his feet and clearly altered, which was better than pacing in the basement. With his medication on board, he would lie down in the basement, crawl into the bathtub if he had access or with us on the couch if the TV was really loud. His medication took an hour to kick in and lasted about four hours, so finding the "right" time to give it to him was tricky. Too early, and it wouldn’t last and we had to try to add a second dose without over-dosing. Too late, and he was already afraid. In my old neighborhood, it was not uncommon for fireworks to go off until 1 am or later, and if the holiday fell on a weekend, they would go off long into the night. We finally had to give up and go camping the last two years so we were able to skip the worst of it but we still had to deal with it daily because people couldn't contain it to the holiday.

Now, before you say, “My dog isn’t afraid because I socialized them to the sound as a puppy,” implying that I failed to socialize my dog properly, we DID expose him to fireworks as a puppy. For many years he was fine—until he wasn’t. Early exposure is helpful, but it isn’t a guarantee that your dog will always be comfortable with the sound or that fear won’t develop later in life. And this theory completely discounts people who adopt an older dog. While there are many ways to help these dogs—I've discussed several strategies as a guest on two podcasts—there's also a lot that can be done by those who enjoy fireworks.

I’m not asking you to stop having fun; I’m simply asking that you limit fireworks to July 3rd and July 4th. If people could contain their celebrations to these two nights, life would be much easier for many dogs and their owners. We could maintain a normal routine up until the holiday and then plan accordingly. However, when fireworks are set off every night, it severely impacts my dog’s ability to live a fear-free life in his own home.

As a professional dog trainer, I was fortunate to have the knowledge and resources to help Stanley through his fear, dedicating countless hours over the years. To honor his legacy, I’ve compiled a list of 8 tips to assist dogs with mild sound phobias. If your dog has a severe sound phobia, these tips can be helpful, but please consult your vet for additional medical intervention.

Here are my 8 BEST TIPS to help your dog cope during "firework season."

Believe—Don’t dismiss or minimize your dog’s fear. Dogs don’t lie about their feelings; if you see fearful behavior, trust that it’s real.
Early –Begin conditioning your dog to sounds early in life and early each year. Waiting until July or adulthood means missing the optimal time for effective conditioning.
Stay— Be there for your dog during fireworks. I haven’t attended a fireworks show in years because my best friend needs me. The first week of July sees an increase in missing and injured dogs, so staying home and watching your pet is crucial.
Talk – Talk with your vet about medications, but DO NOT use acepromazine. “Ace” is a paralytic, so your dog can’t react to the sounds, but they are still experiencing the sounds, and often the fear is compounded because they can’t escape their fear. For mild discomfort, over-the-counter options like Composure by VetriScience, taken at a triple dose, can be effective and affordable.
Trial— If using medication, do a trial run before the holiday to ensure it works. The first year I tried medication, I found out too late that it had to be mail-ordered, which led to a last-minute scramble. A trial run can prevent this stress.
Inside—Keep your dog inside the house. Potty them before it gets dark, feed them early, and then hunker down inside. Play some music, watch a movie, or snuggle up on the couch. When you take your last potty break, consider doing so on a leash just in case they get frightened and try to bolt.
Physical exercise—Provide extra physical exercise for your dog. You don’t need to exhaust your dog, but allowing it to burn off stress will help it cope with the incoming armageddon.
Secure safe space – Check the security of your windows and fences the week before the holiday. If your dog is comfortable in a crate move it to an interior space and cover with a blanket. This will take their safe space and make it feel even cozier and safe for them.

If you found these tips helpful and want to dive deeper into how you can support your dog during fireworks, I invite you to listen to these two podcasts. I was a guest speaker on K9 Educators - To Save a Pets Life podcast. In these episodes, I share more detailed strategies and personal anecdotes that can make a big difference:

What should you do next? First, use the tips to assist your own dog, then take action. How do you take action?

Talk – Stop suffering in silence. Talk about this issue. With your friends, family, coworkers. If your story helps just one person realize how damaging their behavior is to those around them and changes their behavior it will make a difference. It’s like tossing a pebble into a pond to get a ripple effect. That ripple only starts by someone tossing a pebble. Toss the Pebble.
Post on Social Media – Spread awareness by sharing your dog’s fear on social media. Encourage your neighbors to limit their fireworks to the actual holiday. Use hashtags like #fireworkfearisreal, #fireworkssuck, and #nofearsummer. Not sure what to say? Here is a simple post that I make every year. I find a silly or goofy picture of my dog and post it with this caption. "This is who your illegal fireworks hurt. His name is Stanley. And if you must break the law please contain it to the 4th of July so that he doesn't live in fear all summer long. #fireworksfear is real. #fearfreesummer "
Ally – You can create a coalition of allies by posting on social media and talking to your friends about how impactful fireworks are for your dog and for yourself. We need collective action to make a change. Again, I am not proposing that there be NO fireworks but rather that they contain them to the actual holiday. Your allies can then support the dogs in their neighborhoods by talking to neighbors and reporting as necessary.
Talk to your neighbors – If you see someone shooting off fireworks, please ask them if they know a dog that is afraid, and then ask them not to do it. Show them your dog and tell them their name. If you don’t have a fearful dog, you can use mine—his name was Stanley. Often the advice given is "call the police." That is ineffective because by the time they arrive, the fireworks are done or the kids have scurried back inside. Plus, we need to start talking to our neighbors and friends instead of relying on "others" to handle the situation. Please, if you know someone who shoots off fireworks, even just one, please, please ask them to stop and to save them for the actual holiday.
Talk to parents – If you see kids shooting off fireworks, please talk to their parents. Often parents aren’t aware that their kids are behaving this way. Again, ask them to contain it to the holiday.
Report – If you have tried talking to your neighbor and they continue to break the law (if it’s unlawful where you live), report them. This problem continues to thrive because most people prefer to avoid confrontation and think “it’s not that big of a deal,” so they suffer in silence. If it’s an ongoing problem with the same people record them as proof and then call the police. Ask your allies to report as well. By working together with collective action to a common goal – containing fireworks to the holiday – we can make the world a little bit better for everyone.

Our dogs give us unconditional love, unwavering loyalty, and endless joy. They are our companions through thick and thin. We owe it to them to do everything in our power to give them a summer free from fear and anxiety. That might mean working doubly hard to counter condition to fireworks, that might mean exploring calming aids or medication and it might even mean having uncomfortable conversations with our neighbors.

By being vulnerable and sharing your experience, you might change someone’s behavior. Will you encounter jerks who be belligerent and rude? Yes. But, you will also find people who are struggling just like you and people with empathy who will become your allies.

"If you find it difficult to speak up, but you want to share the message, you can also consider buying this T-shirt that I made, which is a fun way to get your point across when you’re out and about running errands.

“When you know better you do better,” I truly believe that some people really don’t know how impactful their firework behavior is and if educated they will change their behavior and contain it to the holiday. So, let’s work together to give our best friends a no fear summer. Toss the pebble. Start the ripple in your community."

#fireworkfearisreal #fireworkssuck #nofearsummer

Get your #fearfreesummer shirt here

]]><![CDATA[Complex problems need a game plan and you won't find that on social media.]]>Wed, 26 Apr 2023 02:38:42 GMThttps://www.namastaytraining.com/blog/complexproblemsneedaplan

If your dog is being “naughty,” and you look for help on a social media site, you are looking in the wrong place! There are two main reasons why social media is the last place to look for advice.

Helpful people give advice based on what worked for THEIR dog, and YOUR dog is an individual.
Trainers, like myself can give generalized suggestions on how to teach new behaviors, but complex behavior modification plans have too many variables to address in a short format.

For example, look at this post I found the other day. (SPOO is short for standard poodle)

As you can expect, the comments ran the gamut of answers. Use a “vibrating collar,” give them more exercise, squirt them with vinegar water; they need training and the usual “I had this problem, and this is what I did.”

This is about par for the course in my experience. I find it a fascinating study in human behavior that some people immediately encourage punishing the dog – shock collar and vinegar water, and others (politely) blame the owner – exercise more and train them.

My comment was, “Trainer here: This situation has a lot to unpack, and you won’t find a fix on social media. Hire a trainer.”

I didn’t say “hire a trainer,” hoping they hire me. I am not looking for a payday. I often give training advice on social media, but complex situations like this can’t be solved overnight.

Let’s use my “address or suppress” series as the framework. If you are unfamiliar with this, you can watch the whole series here.

If we want to suppress the behavior, we could punish the behavior – yell at them, use a shock collar, a squirt bottle, or a penny can. These could work if the dog finds them punishing, but you can also create a more significant problem by compounding the fear by adding pain or discomfort. We could also suppress the behavior by using a management tool to prevent the behavior. For example, we can crate the dogs and cover them with a blanket so they can’t see. We can put window cling on the windows to prevent the dog from seeing clearly and use a calming cap simultaneously.

If we want to address the behavior, we need more information. So these are the questions I would ask to gather the information I need to create a plan to address the cause of the behavior.

Tell me more about the dogs.

How old are the dogs exactly?
What are the sexes?
Are they littermates?
Who came first?
How do they spend their days?
How much exercise and what type do they get? How often?
On a scale from 1-10, with one being nervous and ten being super confident, where would you rank each dog?
Does their ranking change based on the situation?
Does their ranking change if they are alone vs. the group vs. a pair?
If yes, please tell me when it changes and how.

Tell me about their learning history

How much training have they had?
What have you taught them?
Have you taught them “quiet”?
How compliant are they inside the home? (low distraction)
How compliant are they in the backyard? (mild distractions)
How compliant are they on a walk? (high distraction)
How are their self-modulation skills?
Can they self-regulate, or do you have to say “leave it”?

Tell me about the behavior

What do you mean by “reactivity”?
Are they barking? Growling? Lunging at the windows? Pacing back and forth?
How long does the behavior last?
How often does the behavior occur?
Which dog is the first to trigger?
Which dog is the last to resolve?
Does this behavior happen when they are alone in the car?
Does this behavior happen when there are two dogs in the car? Or only when all three are together?

Tell me about your expectations.

Can you tell me what you want the dogs to do without using the absence of behavior? i.e., “don’t bark” is the absence of behavior but “look quietly” is a trainable behavior.
Let’s make a list of 5 behaviors that are acceptable options.

Tell me about yourself

How committed are you to change?
How much time do you have for training?
How many dogs have you trained in the past?

Once I have all those answers, I can see the bigger picture. When I can see the big picture, I can see behavior patterns. Once I can see the behavior patterns, I can formulate a training plan that addresses the problem's root cause and is tailored to that specific dog.

The root cause of this problem could be fear-based anxiety, it could be a lack of clear communication of expectations, it could be a lack of training to the level of distraction needed, it could be a pack dynamic problem, or it could be a lack of self-regulation.

Still, until I have all the details, I can only guess. If I am not addressing the cause of the behavior, I am wasting time. This happens all the time. People will say, “I’ve tried x,y, and z, and nothing works.” It isn’t working because you aren’t addressing the root of the problem for THIS dog. And that is the problem with getting training advice on social media. People try to be helpful but they give advice based on what worked for THEIR dog and not yours. And as a trainer, I can’t get all the information I need in a social media post to provide accurate advice.

That doesn’t mean you can’t get good advice on the Internet. You certainly can, but you have to look at the source of the information and understand that it is GENERALIZED information and is a good starting point.

When you are serious about changing your dog’s behavior it’s time to hire a trainer. Hiring a qualified trainer isn’t an expense but an investment. When you work with a trainer, you benefit from their experience. This is often years of experience with a variety of dogs which allows them to assess a dog’s behavior quickly and create a specific training plan for your dog. When you make this investment and follow their specific suggestions, your dog’s “naughty” behavior will soon be a distant memory.

]]><![CDATA[10 reasons we are getting our next dog from a reputable breeder]]>Tue, 21 Jun 2022 01:42:50 GMThttps://www.namastaytraining.com/blog/10-reasons-we-are-getting-our-next-dog-from-a-reputable-breeder

We have committed. We found our breeder and we have put a deposit down on a puppy so there is no turning back now. We chose to get a puppy from a responsible breeder. I’ve already been asked by a few friends “Why didn’t you rescue a dog? There are SO many homeless dogs!” So, if you are secretly wondering the same thing here’s a list of why we chose a buy from a breeder instead of buying a dog from a rescue.

1. Compatibility. My youngest dog, Walter, is a wonderful dog that we love very much but he has some quirks and challenges. We must bring in a female and she has to be middle of the road in confidence. Not so strong willed that she will constantly challenge him but also not such a push over that he will walk all over her. My older dog, Stanley is well mannered and socialized with a rock-solid temperament, however I don't want a dog to come into the house and challenge his position since he is older. We need a puppy, not an adolescent dog that the rescues and shelters offer.

Timing. When you work with a responsible breeder you know when the puppy will be born, when they are weaned and ready to come home. This allows us to plan accordingly and be ready. No spur of the moment decisions here or waiting endlessly for the “right” rescue to come along at the “right” time.
Epigentics. Many people get a puppy from a shelter or rescue thinking that they are getting a blank slate. Quite often these puppies have behavior problems. Especially fear. Puppies are NOT blank slate. Why? Because of epigenetics. In a nutshell, the experiences of the parents affect the offspring. I want a dog with behaviorally sound parents. Curious about epigenetics? Here is a super quick explanation. And a longer explanation here.
Early learning. The eight weeks the breeder has the puppy is super important. Why? Because the foundation of every animal starts the minute they come into this world. There are critical and important phases that all dogs must go through to develop into sound animals. I want a dog from someone who understands these phases and meets all their needs - especially at critical times.
Health guarantee. Reputable breeders carefully select the best health qualities in the dogs that they breed. Every puppy born to a reputable breeder has parents that have gone through a series of genetic tests to ensure that the dog you get has the best possible chance of being healthy. So, an excellent breeder will give a health guarantee something like this: “This puppy is guaranteed to be in good health and has been vaccinated and de-wormed properly for the puppy’s present age. The puppy has been thoroughly examined by a licensed vet, and given a clean bill of health. This puppy is guaranteed to the original buyer for two years against hereditary/genetic diseases, and hip dysplasia.” That is not only piece of mind for me but also for my pocketbook.
Back-up Plan. Reputable breeders stand behind their work. Here is what my breeder has to say “I can tell you my dogs will NEVER end up in a shelter. Not only will I buy back dogs if they can’t be kept, but if, by chance, a dog I produced ends up in shelter, it’s microchipped with me as a secondary contact that can’t be removed. I am responsible for all my puppies for life. Shelters wouldn’t even be needed if all breeders did the same.” Again, piece of mind for many owners.
Love of the breed. I don’t want to end up in a world that just has “dogs”. I love the variety of the breeds we have and don’t want to see them disappear. Did you know that many breeds today have very small populations? If some breeds were any other kind of animal, they would be considered endangered. You may find it hard to believe, but breeds can become extinct. If we don’t support reputable breeders, we will lose them and lose the wonderful variety of dogs they breed. For more on this idea read this blog.
Stacking the deck. Right now, I don’t have a lot of free time and the time I do have I don’t want spend on a lengthy behavior modification program with my own personal dog. I’ve been there and done that with my previous dog, Jasper, so I know what it entails but that doesn’t mean I want to go there again. At least not right now. There is no perfect dog. Getting a dog from a breeder doesn’t guarantee that you won’t have problems or challenges. Not all breeders are reputable but that’s a topic for another day. By using a reputable breeder I believe I am going to stack the deck in my favor of getting a temperamentally sound and healthy dog.
Truth behind the curtain. Rescues aren’t always what they seem. Some are great and some are not. "Don't buy while shelter dogs die" is great marketing. It tugs at your heart strings. But unscrupulous rescues and shelter organizations are responsible for importing almost double the number of dogs euthanized. Why are "rescue organizations" not placing the dogs we have in the United States? Why are they spending donation money on importing more? There is such a thing as irresponsible rescue. “670,000 dogs are euthanized in US shelters every year. 1,000,000 dogs are imported from overseas by rescues every year.” (Source – CDC & ASPCA) in addition, these dogs are often not healthy. Here are just two examples from this year of poor health in imported dogs. New strain of distemper and Rabies from Egypt dog.
High expectations. My new dog will be a working partner with me and that requires a level of skill that the average dog owner doesn't need. It gives me piece of mind knowing that I will know everything my dog has experienced in his life so I am not surprised by an unexpected response in the middle of a training class or private session.

Where you get your dog is a personal individualized decision. What is right for one person may not be right for another. Rescuing a dog doesn’t make you a better owner, nor does it give you the right to judge anyone who hasn’t rescued a pet. Being a great dog guardian isn’t based solely on where you got your dog but how you treat the dog for the rest of their life. The quality of the relationship and life you provide the dog is what matters at the end of the day.

]]><![CDATA[10 Tips for a successful homecoming with your new dog]]>Fri, 25 Mar 2022 17:54:33 GMThttps://www.namastaytraining.com/blog/10-tips-for-a-successful-homecoming-with-your-new-dog

You have planned, prepared, and dreamed about adding a dog to your life and today is the day they come home with you. You are so excited! On the other hand, your new dog has no idea who you are. All they know is that they have left their last “home” (whether it’s the breeder, a shelter, or a foster, it was still “home” to them), and now everything they know is gone.
Homecoming can be pretty stressful for everyone in the family, most of all the dog. This is especially true if the dog comes from a shelter or rescue situation. What can you do to help your dog handle the stress of this transition? Utilize these ten tips to help them ease into their new life with you.

1. Let them decompress
Younger dogs, especially puppies, will take less time to decompress than adult dogs. Adult dogs from a shelter can exhibit fear, occasional aggression, or completely shut down. Your primary job is to allow the dog to settle into their new surroundings and explore their new home on their terms at their own pace. This does NOT mean leaving them unsupervised in your home – if you do, accidents will happen, things will get chewed on, and mistakes will be made. I recommend allowing your dog to explore the home while you hang back, following them to guide them.

2. Manage expectations
Don’t expect them to understand the rules of your home. Don’t expect them to know where the toilet is or how to signal they have to go potty. If your dog is a puppy, don’t expect them to sleep through the night. Expect them to have an accident in the house. Expect them to chew on stuff if you haven’t dog-proofed the home. Don’t expect them to love you right away. Relationships take time to build, and you might think it’s “love at first sight,” they may not feel the same way. High expectations are a sure-fire way to get disappointed. Give it some time.
3. Keep it calm and low key
A new dog needs a calm environment to acclimate. Keep things quiet and peaceful in your home as much as possible. Every sound, movement, and smell will be new to them. This is especially challenging with kids in the house. Yes, your dog needs to adapt to a busy household, but perhaps you can give them some time to settle in before the kids are jumping on the couch and running around screaming?
4. Give them space
Imagine going on vacation to a place you have never been with people you don’t know, and as soon as you get there, someone keeps hugging you or touching you. Would you feel comfortable? Probably not – especially if you just met the person. Your new dog probably feels the same way. Give them some space! Resist the urge to shower them with affection. Allow them to solicit engagement from you. This doesn’t mean you can’t pet them but keep your sessions short and stay out of their face.
5. Slow introductions
For the first week, keep your dog at home and limit visitors. When it comes time to make introductions to people and other pets, do it slowly. If you have other animals, it's best to let them get acquainted with the new dog outside your home. Take them on a walk and let them meet on the neutral territory if possible; an established dog may feel more territorial in the house. If that isn’t possible, have them meet outside in a safe enclosed area on long leashes that don’t have tension. I know you want to show your new dog to all your friends and family, but there is plenty of time for that later. Let your dog start to build a relationship with you, so they know they have a safe person to go to if they get overwhelmed. When they meet people and dogs, let them go to them and pay close attention to how they communicate comfort or discomfort.
6. Update their identification immediately
If your dog gets spooked and runs out the door or jumps a fence and doesn’t have identification, it makes it much harder for them to get back home safely. The best tags are Red Dingo tags because they are guaranteed for life, but they take a week to arrive, so stop at the pet store and get a cheap tag until your permanent identification arrives.
7. Crate train
Some new dog owners are not fans of using a crate. For puppies, they are a must for housetraining and sleep training. For adult dogs, they can be a tool that is familiar to them, and everyday things can be comforting. You (as a human) might not like them, but many cautious dogs view them as a safe place to process all the changes that are happening daily.
8. Become a detective
Watch your dog for clues about their personality and what skills they may already know. You are looking for deficiencies and strengths, and this requires you to see what they do naturally with no influence from you. For instance, if you are walking in the backyard (fully fenced), pay attention to see if they follow you or do their own thing. If they follow you, that is a clue that teaching recall might be fairly easy. If they are busy doing their own thing and rarely look up to see where you are in relation to them, that is also a clue. This isn’t about judging your new dog as “good” or “bad”; this is simply a tool to see how they respond when given a CHOICE. Those choices will influence how you will train certain behaviors and will provide you with greater insight into how they see the world and how that will ultimately affect their responses to the world.
9. Establish a routine
Dogs, like us, are creatures of habit. The more predictable aspects of their new lives are, the faster they will acclimate to their new home. Feeding, walking, playing, sleeping, and other daily activities can all be a part of your dog's regularly scheduled routine. Routines can change, and some people have jobs that prevent a set routine, but the more predictable life can be, especially at the beginning, the easier the transition to your home will be for the dog.
10. Start teaching them life skills
Give them a week or two to begin settling into your home and do your detective work before starting any training program. Giving them some time allows you to assess them to formulate a training plan. Do they know any basic obedience? Do you need to start at square one or somewhere in the middle? Regardless of what they already know, I encourage you to start teaching them basic obedience – especially patience games! When you teach (training), you are building a relationship, and the more positive experiences you share, the stronger your bond. So, have fun with it, use tasty treats, and show your new dog that you are a fun human!

If you follow these tips, it shouldn’t take long for your dog to realize that your home is now his home, and it’s safe to let his guard down. Sometimes this results in a dramatic behavior change – both good and bad so be prepared that you might have a very different dog on day forty than you did on day two. That’s ok! You will figure it out but don’t hesitate to contact a professional for help, especially if you see fearful behaviors that don’t lessen in two or three weeks. It could be transitional stress, or it could be more deep-seated fear behaviors. When you work with a professional, they can help you avoid common misconceptions and pitfalls and help your dog feel safer faster than if you go it alone.

If you are trustworthy, patient, and open to hearing your new dog’s communication, you will lay the foundation of a lasting relationship with your new friend. A dog to walk WITH you through life because they WANT to be with you.

]]><![CDATA[What is my training philosophy?]]>Wed, 23 Mar 2022 20:56:58 GMThttps://www.namastaytraining.com/blog/what-is-my-training-philosophyOur dogs don't have a choice in the training methods we use but we do it's our responsibility as loving guardians to teach them without hurting them or damaging the potential of our lifelong relationship with them.

I believe that dogs have an amazing culture and communication system. I believe that just because it is different than ours does not make it inferior to ours, simply different. Because we have different cultures we have to each learn about the other. Our dogs have to learn our human culture and we should learn some dog culture. It is our job to bridge the communication gap between species. We shouldn’t punish them for being dogs when we haven’t taken the time to teach them what behaviors we do want. We must show them how to function best in this human world.

I believe that when we are teaching our dog something new positive teaching methods are best. However, I am NOT afraid to tell a dog “no”. When I do tell a dog no it is after I have thoroughly taught the dog what behaviors they can do. I do not have to hurt a dog to tell then no and I don’t. I don’t use choke chains, pinch collars, shock collars, or alpha rolls. When I have to learn something new I hope that my teacher is patient, clear, shows me exactly what they want me to do and makes learning fun. I don't want a teacher who yells at me, makes me feel stupid, or hurts me to teach me and our dogs are the same way.

I also believe that

Dog training should be affordable to everyone -not a luxury item.
Dog training should be fun and educational for both dogs and people, not a power struggle.
Dog training should be about building trust and communication not instituting “control.”

Using humane, scientific learning theories, I’ll show you how to communicate with your dog so they become a happy, well-behaved, and reliable companion. I will teach you how to listen to your dog and build a relationship based on trust and love. I will show you both how to work together as a team.
]]>